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Hamburgö - Hamburgsund - hike along the coast in Bergaleden on Hamburgö - snorkeling over colorful seabed in Hamburgsund archipelago - red Bohus granite

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A hundred meters outside the town of Hamburgsund on Sweden's west coast in Bohuslän lies the five-kilometer-long and three-kilometer-wide island of Hamburgö. Here you can hike the 2.5-kilometer-long Bergaleden circular trail, or relax on the beach on the other side of the island, where there is also an underwater snorkeling trail with ten stations featuring different underwater environments. The shoreline is dotted with red granite rocks, known as Bohusgranitt.


Mann og kvinne sitter på benk og ser ut over sund med liten by i enden på Hamburgö

There are only about 100 meters between the settlement of Hamburgsund and the island of Hamburgö. They are crossed by a free ferry that departs every 20 minutes from 05:00 to 24:00 all year round. Hamburgsund had just over 800 permanent residents in 2010. It is unknown how many people live permanently on Hamburgö, but today holidaymakers dominate both the island and the settlement. The area's written history dates back to the 11th century when there was a courthouse just south of Hamburgsund where important decisions were made. But there is also a cemetery from the Iron Age on Hamburgö.

Gul kabelferge med biler på dekket på Hamburgö
The regular ferry passes the strait between Hamburgö and Hamburgsund within a few minutes

From 1585 there was a customs station on Hamburgsund as part of the Øresund customs. It was important for trade and shipping in the area. Since the harbor in the strait inside Hamburgö was sheltered from waves and wind, it was a suitable place for transporting goods by sea. In the 18th century, there was abundant herring fishing on the west coast of Sweden. This provided the basis for many herring coking plants along the land in the strait. But it was not until the 19th century that the population began to increase seriously. Then the stone industry was started on Hamburgö with the extraction of granite blocks. At the same time, shipping activities were developed with boats that transported wooden goods and bricks from Norway and coal and coke from Gothenburg. In addition, both herring and granite were transported from Hamburgsund.

Kirke på toppen av en høyde med vann og båthus nedenfor på Hamburgö
The church on Hamburgö - Hamburgsund's chapel from 1915

The Iron Age grave is one of the sights along the so-called Bergaleden trail, which starts right next to the parking lot at the ferry terminal. It is a 2.5-kilometer round trip on a path and gravel road that mostly goes through mixed forest with deciduous and coniferous trees. In some places you get a view of the strait between Hamburgö and Hamburgsund. The name Hamburgsund has no connection with the city of Hamburg. The name comes from the fact that in the 14th century Hamburgö was called Hornbora - "the one who carries horns" - which is probably due to the pointed headlands that protrude on the western and southern sides of the island.

Parkeringsplass og toaletter ved Hamburgö
The parking lot at the ferry landing on Hamburgö where the Hamburgleden trail starts. Turn right onto the blue marked path about 100 meters ahead.

Kvinne og mann går på smal sti på Hamburgö


Skogsvei med høye grantrær på sidene på Hamburgö

Strand mot sund på Hamburgö
At one point on the trail you get right down to the water

Mosekledde steiner på smal sti i skog ved Hamburgö

Liten hytte med mosegrodd tak og vindu med røde karmer i skogen på Hamburgö

At another location you come to a viewpoint where you can see much of the narrow strait and the town of Hamburgsund on the other side.


Smalt sund med øy i midten og liten by med trehus i enden på Hamburgö


Informasjonsplakat om jernaldergrav på Hamburgö
Along the route there is a tomb from the Stone Age about which there are different theories


Gammelt tre som har falt over sti i skogen ved Hamburgö

Granittblokker dekket av mose ved sti med kvinne i enden på Hamburgö
In several places along the route, you will find traces of former quarrying activities

Liten hvit hytte med to tette grantrær utenfor på Hamburgö
Towards the end of the route you will come to an area with holiday homes and other buildings

In addition to Bergaleden, you should also visit the beach area on the other side of the island - Boviken's bathing area - when visiting Hamburgö. It is located on the northwest side. Here there is both a fine sandy beach and a beautiful area with rocky cliffs where there is also a diving board. If you go left, you will reach the beach, if you go straight ahead, you will reach cliffs and a diving board. Along this path there is also a disused quarry with blocks of red granite. It is the so-called Bohusgranite, which is the youngest granite in Sweden. It is "only" 920 million years old.


Grusvei ned til strand på Hamburgö
The beach of Boviken

Strand med utsikt til skjærgård på Hamburgö

Sandstrand med svaberg på siden der to mennesker går på trebro på Hamburgö

To smale og lange røde granittblokker lagt som liten bro på svaberg i skjærgård på Hamburgö

Glatte svaberg i rød granitt med to mennesker som sitter på enden og ser ut mot øyene utenfor på Hamburgö

Svaberg i rød granitt ved sjøen på Hamburgö

Liten ferge i skjærgården ved Hamburgö

Gruslagt sti til benk mellom nedlagt steinbrudd og svaberg på Hamburgö

Nærbilde av steinbrudd med rød granitt
Disused quarry with blocks of Bohus granite

S-formet kystlinje med runde steiner og svaberg på Hamburgö

To mennesker står på toppen av svaberg med trebro i forkant på Hamburgö

Liten motorbåt i skjærgård med svaberg i rød granitt i forkant på Hamburgö


Mønsker som ligner dyr i rød granitt på Hamburgö

Stupebrett ved svaberg på Hamburgö

Boviken also has an underwater attraction. It is a 200-meter-long underwater trail marked with a line on the water surface. When you snorkel along this line, you will see 10 different underwater environments. At each of the 10 stations there is an underwater information poster that you can dive down to and read. They are located in relatively shallow water.


Informasjonsplakat om snorkelled i Bolviken på Hamburgö

There is a small kiosk at the ferry pier at Hamburgö, but if you want to eat, it is better to travel back by the regular ferry to Hamburgsund where there are several places to eat. One of the most popular is Hjalmars, which is located by the pier. On the outskirts of Hamburgsund you can see the ruins of Hornborg Castle and Vrångstad Cemetery, but there is not much to see in the town itself. There is a harbor, a few shops and a few older wooden houses with lush gardens, but it is the ferry pier and the places to eat that dominate.


Restaurant Hjalmars med lekebåt ved siden av i Hamburgsund

Restaurant på brygge der mennesker sitter og spiser ved Hamburgsund
The restaurant Hjalmars

More excursions: www.turideer.com


Excursion of the week: Hamburgö via Hamburgsund - hike along the coast in Bergaleden on Hamburgö. Suitable for those who want a slightly different excursion where you can both go for a short walk, relax on the beach, and at the same time experience the archipelago on the west coast of Sweden.


Suitable for: Everyone, but parts of Bergaleden are not suitable for strollers or wheelchairs


Getting there: Enter Hamburgsund on Google Maps. This will take you straight to the ferry port with the regular ferry over to Hamburgö. It is free and runs every 20 minutes. Take the ferry over to Hamburgö and park in the parking lot on the left immediately after you get off the boat. There is a sign there with a description of the marked trail called Hamburgleden. It starts on a blue marked path that turns off to the right from the road about 100 meters from the parking lot. To get to the beach area, search for "Bovikens badplats" in Google Maps. You will then come to a parking lot right by the beach after driving across to the other side of the island.


© 2016 by Liv and Geir Stene-Larsen.

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